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Bristol to Dalseter, Norway by train – destination WalkingWomen Cross Country Skiing holiday
Totals: 11 Stops … 27 nights … 31 Trains … 1 Ferry
Amsterdam (2 nights)
Bremen (1 night)
Aarhus (2 nights)
Hirtshals (1 night)
Oslo (3 nights)
Dalseter (7 nights)
Gothenburg (2 nights)
Malmo (2 nights)
Fredericia (1 night)
Osnabruck (1 night)
Zwolle (3 nights)
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DAY 1: Clifton Down – Bristol Temple Meads – Paddington – St Pancras – AMSTERDAM (2 nights)
This was a slight detour but I love Amsterdam and know it well …… the weather was great so I just walked (17 miles), saw a bit of art in the Stedelijk, visited the bizarre cat museum and finished off with Mozart’s Requiem in the floating concert hall (free wine in the interval, unexpected, not unwelcome).
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DAY 3: Amsterdam – Osnabrück – BREMEN (1 night)
I was expecting Bremen to be an historic and serious Hanseatic city but it turned out to be another German city that embraces mass drinking in the streets and it was very busy. Tbf the medieval centre and marketplace buildings are stunning, and there are some lovely walks along the river and the moat; plus I wasn’t expecting this windmill.
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DAY 4: Bremen – Hamburg – Kolding – AARHUS (2 nights)
Lovely Aarhus: I could have stayed a month. Some great museums, indoor and outdoor, seething with school groups; and some pleasing street art. The station was ravishing and even the town hall looked like an extremely beautiful prison (or possibly a normal Scandinavian prison). The main department store (Sailing) has a very cool rooftop terrace; and the very splendid library (DOKK1) overlooks the bay. Marvellous.
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Day 6: Aarhus – Aalborg – HIRTSHALS (1 night)
Right at the top of Jutland, exploring the coast, I felt myself in a Scandi Noir setting, somewhat unsettling. Nice fish supper though.
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Day 7: Hirtshals – [FERRY] – Kristiansand – OSLO (3 nights)
Comfortable ferry trip at a sociable hour, and an easy transfer from ferry to train (5 mins from ferry to station) and onwards to my next stop. I was absolutely blessed with the weather in Oslo which made my fjord sauna and icy dip more enticing. I visited two sculpture parks – one a little too Teutonic and penile for my tastes, the other a slice of heaven with views across the water. Adored both the Munch and the National museums and then Ibsen took me on a VR tour (a bit odd that was). Then set off to catch up with the rest of my ski party.
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Day 10: Oslo – Oslo Airport – [MINIBUS] – DALSETER (7 nights)
Spent a wonderful week learning to cross country ski with @walking_women (first lesson: how to fall over). Beautiful scenery, lovely people, morning yoga, afternoon water aerobics, evening activities and way too much to eat!
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17: Dalseter – [MINIBUS] – Lillehammer – Oslo – GOTHENBURG (2 nights)
The train journey along the lake from Lillehammer back to Oslo was a total highlight (tip: sit on the west side of the train). And Gothenburg turned out to be another delicious Scandinavian city with plentiful cheap public transport and splendid public buildings: I went to the integrated rail and bus stations a few times (so zen!) and wandered around the public library. I enjoyed the floating multi-storey car park and best of all was the art deco spa Hagabadet: unfortunately in the latter the photo opps were ofc limited but I esp recommend the Roman bath and the hammocks. Even the hotel (Bellora: great breakfasts!) had a boxing ring which is a first for me after all these years. Sadly the Fisk Church (actually a fish market) was under refurb, so I’ll just have to come back
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Day 19: Gothenburg – Malmo – Lund – MALMO (2 nights)
MALMO is a great city for walking around esp if, like me, you like staring at buildings and letting your feet take you where they want. So many parks including a long waterside stretch with views to Oresund (THE Bridge) and a distant Copenhagen. Highlights were the 450 y/o Lion Pharmacy; the jawdropping glass-fronted public library (I nearly shed a tear); the Disgusting Food Museum where I sampled insects and some actually rather nice cheeses; and the pier end sauna / sea-dip which was a nice surprise (no cossie required). I was pleased I also had the time to pop over to Lund for a few hours, an old university town with a lovely cathedral and nicely behaved students.
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Day 21: Malmo – Copenhagen – Odense – FREDERICIA (1 night)
FREDERICIA in Jutland was a slight departure from the norm as a stopover. I had a pleasant stroll along the seafront and round the old garrison. Also popped into KOLDING and had a poke around (incl the library, obvs). Can’t believe I went so close to the original Legoland but didn’t visit … apparently they don’t allow adults without children in tow. Can this be true?
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Day 22: Fredericia – Korting – Pinneberg (detour) – Hamburg – OSNABRUCK (1 night)
If OSNABRÜCK with its medieval centre, squares and large & impressive churches was in, say, Italy, it would be swarming. Lucky me to have the place practically to myself. My highlight was the Felix Nussbaum House, with its collection of the artist’s work from his early years to just before transportation in 1944. The collection is set in a purpose-built, stunning building and has the best audio guide I’ve come across. Also it was a nice surprise to meet a museum attendant who was from Wigan (and spoke relatively good English)
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Day 23: Osnabrück – Hengelo – ZWOLLE (3 nights)
Zwolle felt fairly typical as a pretty Dutch city of its type – canals, rerouted rivers, remnants of fortifications from Hanseatic times, and a pleasant and easy way to spend my last few days …. There is a typical adaptation of churches for modern community demands – one a museum / concert hall, one a bookshop (tip: go to Utrecht if you want to see a pub in a church).
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Day 26: Zwolle – Almere – Amsterdam – London St Pancras – Paddington – Bristol Temple Meads – CLIFTON DOWN
I took a slower route back to the Dam in order to enjoy the newest mainline railway (Hanzelijn) – typically Dutch: built on reclaimed land – a wilderness of water meadows as far as the eye can see – and mostly below sea level. It’s the sort of thing that makes me happy. With a few hours to kill in Amsterdam, I visited the Hortus Botanicus – loving esp the vlinderhuis (butterfly palace). Then uneventfully back to London and Bristol, and finishing (as ever) with the short branch line up to Clifton.
Sources of reference for those wanting to do their own research.
But if you prefer it done for you let us know..
- Europe By Rail v 17 by Nicky Gardner & Susanne Kries – for itineraries and recommendations
- Man in Seat 61 website (seat61.com) for all manner of train and station related logistics
- Deutsche Bahn website (https://int.bahn.de/en) for train timetables
- GPSMyCity app for walks and sites in cities
- Plus always collecting tips from inhabitants and other travellers
Thankyou to Teresa our train guru.
